Monday we explored in the dinghy, running up to
St. John’s, the capital of Antigua, to see what that was like. We docked up at
Redcliffe Quay, where we found a quaint wharf area of restored Georgian
buildings and old dockside warehouses all converted into shops. Gifts, clothes,
shoes, accessories, locally made pottery side by side with restaurants and
coffee shops, many with outdoor seating. It’s a fun area! We headed back south
and had a delightful afternoon seeing the rugged shoreline and amazing coves of
Antigua’s northwest coast.
A charter day boat at the wharf of Redcliffe Quay |
Tuesday we took a helicopter tour of Montserrat, to view the Soufriere Hills Volcano
and lava dome. The ash cover and rivers of ash mud – lahars – were devastating
to the southern half of the island; the destruction of Plymouth and its
surrounding villages is heart-breaking to see. Some homes were completely
buried, others had bits of the roofs sticking out of the ash, shorelines
extended some hundreds of yards and new deltas of ash and mud were created. The
helicopter ride was awesome, as the pilot flew us in us close enough to feel
like we were just feet away from the mountainside foliage on one side of the
helicopter, and hundreds of feet up from the valley floors on the other. Wild
goats and a few cattle still roam the exclusion zone, amongst the scientific
monitoring equipment of the Montserrat Volcano Observatory. (Check it out at www.mvo.ms!) It was an amazing experience, and a vivid reminder of the strength and power of
Mother Nature. The tour is not to be missed, if you can arrange it!
Sulphur dioxide and smoke seeping out of the lava dome of the Soufriere Hills Volcano |
Buildings and entire towns were destroyed by the ash and mud flows -- lahars -- that came down the mountain. Tragic. |
Wednesday, we went out scuba
diving with Indigo Divers on the southwest side of Antigua, on a couple of
different sites on Cades Reef. While the visibility wasn’t great (in fact, so
bad at the first site we moved to a second site) the reefs are very healthy
here, with lots of juvenile fish and many varieties of coral on the low ridges.
Ron found a couple of adult spotted drums under a long ledge, and Ally made
friends with a small southern ray that was very insistent upon following her
around! Always fun to see the sea creatures!
Ally gearing up for the first dive of the day |
Other afternoons we beachcombed and lounged on the beaches.
Antigua has 365 beaches, according to their tourist brochures and travel
literature, and while we haven’t counted them ourselves, they are indeed
numerous and gorgeous! We swam
along several shorelines and thoroughly enjoyed the waters. The temps are
perfectly refreshing – not icy cold – and the surf is great fun. Although we’ve been
careful to use two anchors, bow and stern, to secure the dinghy offshore in the beautiful bays and coves, sometimes the
surge is a bit much for close-in anchoring and we have to swim to shore a good distance. We inadvertently surfed the dinghy onto the beach on one occasion, and had to really scramble to get it back out
again before it was damaged! (Whew!)
The dinghy, safely anchored offshore |
We spent one day
running about in the dinghy, doing a bit of exploration south to Falmouth and
English Harbours. The 50th
Annual Antigua Charter Yacht Show was taking place, with mega-yachts in
abundance, all dressed with flags a-flying! It was a sight to see, but odd in
that there weren’t any crowds…Miami Boat Show this is not! But the reason there
weren’t any crowds was that this no ordinary show open to the public, but was only for the high-end charter brokers and their agents who do the charter bookings. Nevertheless, great eye-candy for the rest of us!
The latest adventure
was zip-lining through the rainforest
canopy high up on Fig Tree Hill north of Falmouth Harbour We spent a good 3
hours, doing all the zip lines (12 of them) and then completing the challenge
course afterwards. It was so fun!! The operation was well-run and the rangers helpful and friendly -- made the experience a real treat. The challenge course was a combination of
rope and wire balance runs beneath the ziplines near the rainforest floor, which required a different sort of focus from the aerial feats. Still, we all enjoyed flinging
ourselves through the treetops on the different zip lines high above, and scrambling along the different swinging challenges. It was a
blast!
So….weather
notwithstanding, we’ve been enjoying what Antigua has to
offer!
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